Yelping – Make small circles 1/2” to 1” in length. Some people prefer making a “J” shape.
Clucking – Pull the peg toward you about 1/8” to 1” with light pressure.
Purring – Pull the peg toward you in a half-circle with light pressure.
Cutting or Cackling – Pull the peg toward you 1/4” to 3/8”.
To achieve proper sound, apply more pressure to peg.
Remember to always keep the surface well sanded before each hunt. Never rub calling surface with your hand. Avoid oil or
1. Glass or Crystal – Use a coarse grit sand paper such as a 60-grit.
2. Slate or Aluminum – Use a fine grit sand paper, never coarser than a 220-grit. Finer is better. Scuff pads are best
When sanding most hard surfaces, such as glass or crystal, crisscross sanding is preferred. Results from sanding should be similar to “###” marks on the caller. This insures that the caller can call from any direction.
When sanding soft surfaces with a grain, such as slate, sand with the grain only. When calling, pull the striker across the grain. Aluminum can be crisscross sanded, but remember, on slate and aluminum, use fine sand paper or scuff pad.
Hold the pot only by the rim. For maximum volume, do not touch the bottom of the pot.
To tone the volume down, experiment with touching the bottom of the pot or hold the pot in the palm of your hand.
The closer to the edge of the pot that you hold the call, the higher the pitch will be. The closer you call to the middle of the pot, the deeper/coarser the sound will be.
The greater the tilt of the peg, the coarser the sound will be.
By using these tips, you can make any of Stormn' Norman's pot calls sound like a whole flock of birds, or easily change from one sound to another.
DIAPHRAM CALL / HOW TO USE:
Place caller in roof of mouth with reed pointing out. ALWAYS exhale air; NEVER inhale air through mouth. Exhale through mouth; inhale through nose.
Hold in place by the back or middle of tongue – not the tip. If it tickles the tip of your tongue, move the caller further back. DO NOT PLACE TOO FAR BACK AS CHOKING MAY RESULT!!!
The two ways to achieve the two notes of the basic hen yelp are;
Always keep call away from direct contact with sunlight or heat.
For maximum rasp keep reeds separated by placing toothpicks or spacers between reeds.
To preserve call, store in refrigerator between hunts. Between seasons place in box or bag and put in freezer.
All multi-reed calls may be tuned. By letting some reeds stick together a different sound is achieved. The proper way is the long reed up, or tab touching the tongue.
Yelp: chick or chuck.
Cluck: pick or pack.
Cut or Cackle: pack, with a lot more air.
Purr: fluttering the tongue or gargle, as if using mouthwash.
Turkey hunting tips
• When you think it’s time to get up and move to another hunting spot, stay put for five more minutes. Patience is important.
• When setting up on turkeys before daylight, don’t try to get too close to a roost. If you flush them out of their tree, they may scatter, change their daily routines or move out of the area. Most early morning hunters stay well away from a roost.
• Lengthen the life of a diaphragm call by inserting the curved end of a paper clip between the reeds. This will keep them separated as they dry, and preserve the tone of the call as well as its longevity.
• Do not attempt to take a displaying gobbler. Since a sportsman’s goal is to put as many pellets as possible into the head and neck, a shotgun pattern is most efficient when the bird extends its neck, enlarging the target area. Once a gobbler comes within range, many hunters use some type of vocalization such as a "putt" to bring it out of full strut.
- Some hunters feel a bird is less likely to work downhill toward a call. If a gobbler is located on a hillside or partway up a ridge, these hunters like to climb the slope to call from a position above the tom or at least on the same level. If a tom "hangs up," or refuses to come close enough for shot, persuasive techniques may vary according to its proximity. Try softer calling, calling in another direction, using different vocalizations or stop calling all together. If the bird is distant or hidden enough to permit limited movement, try switching calls or actually moving back as if the hen is going away. Another effective method is to lightly rustle or rake leaves with your hand, imitating the sounds of a turkey scratching the ground. Never call or move when a bird is very close, since it will pinpoint the source of sound.
- Wind changes the challenge of turkey hunting. Some hunters like to call louder, move slower and be more alert to birds approaching unheard in the gusts, and unseen in the moving foliage. Other hunters prefer to set up upwind of where they suspect birds to be, and use the wind to help carry their vocalizations.
• Turkeys have a poor sense of smell, so hunters are well served by applying insect repellent. A gobbler won’t smell you, but he can easily see you if you move. If you’re not bothered by mosquitoes or gnats, you’re more apt to sit still longer.
• If you see another hunter in the woods, never move or make turkey sounds. Simply call out a name or the word "hello." Let the sound of a human voice safely alert the hunter that someone else is in the area.
• Know your hunting area and its safe zone of fire.
• If hunting with companions, know their locations.
NEVER WEAR RED WHITE OR BLUE WHILE HUNTING TURKEYS!!!
While not every hunter swears by decoys, they can be a great asset in many situations. For one, they give a suspicious tom a turkey to see. And, if the decoy is set in an open area such as a mature oak bottom or along a field edge, those decoys can act as a visual call to birds who may spot them from a distance, but has yet to hear you call – especially when you are calling sporadically (or like many hunters are prone to do on a slow day, napping).
Decoys are an asset when taking children, first time hunters or people that may have a disability, because it normally takes the attention off the caller.
Decoys come in several different styles ranging from photo-image silhouette decoys to fold out and inflatable ones and even ones that move via pulling a string. Inflatable decoys are great because they can be quickly inflated for setup and just as quickly deflated to store compactly in a turkey vest. All of the decoys on the market offer a good dose of realism and have been used successfully to bring turkeys in close.
One key to remember when setting decoys out is that wild turkeys are not like geese and that just because they tend to gather in huge winter flocks, you don’t need a massive spread of decoys to entice them in your direction. In fact, the opposite is often true.
A good decoy spread for turkeys amounts to no more than more than a pair of hens and a single jake. Place the jake facing you so when the jealous gobbler rushes in to square off on his younger competition, his back will be to you offering a chance to make any last minute adjustments in your aim. The breeding jake and hen decoy is another great setup that has hit the market in recent years.
Like every aspect of hunting, safety is a key concern when using decoys. Here are a few tips on decoy safety:
Check local regulations to make sure use of decoys is legal in the state you’ll be hunting.
Never carry an uncovered decoy any distance.
From a seated position, identify the clearest line of vision to your front. Establish a sight line that allows 100 yards of visibility. Then set your decoy(s) approximately 20 yards from your position on the line.
If you are calling over decoys and elect to move to a new location, check carefully to ensure that no one is stalking your decoys. Check before leaving your setup. Should you see someone in the area, (especially close to your line of sight) call out to them in a loud, clear voice